"Chemical peel" is a term that spans an enormous range, from a gentle 20-minute treatment with zero downtime to a deeper procedure requiring a week of recovery. The word "chemical" puts some people off, but peels are one of the most evidence-backed, well-studied treatments in dermatology. The key is matching the right peel to the right concern and the right skin type.

Here's how to understand the difference, and what to realistically expect.

What a Chemical Peel Actually Does

A chemical peel applies an acid solution to the skin at a controlled concentration and pH. The acid accelerates the skin's natural exfoliation process, dissolving the bonds between dead and damaged skin cells and triggering the skin to generate new cells in their place.

Depending on the depth of penetration:

• Superficial peels treat the outermost layer (epidermis)

• Medium peels reach the upper dermis

• Deep peels penetrate to the mid-dermis

Deeper isn't always better, it depends entirely on what you're treating and what downtime is acceptable.

The Main Peel Types and What They Treat

Glycolic Acid Peel (AHA)

• Depth: Superficial

• Best for: Dull skin, mild uneven tone, early fine lines, dehydrated skin

• What to expect: Mild tingling, no real downtime, skin looks brighter immediately

• Sessions: 4–6, spaced 2–4 weeks apart

• Indian skin note: Safe and effective; use lower concentrations initially to test tolerance

Salicylic Acid Peel (BHA)

• Depth: Superficial

• Best for: Acne-prone skin, blackheads, oily skin, PIH (post-acne marks)

• What to expect: Mild stinging, some frosting. Skin may appear drier for a few days

• Why it's good for acne: Salicylic acid is oil-soluble, meaning it penetrates into pores and breaks up the lipid-rich debris causing congestion

• Sessions: 4–6, spaced 2–4 weeks apart

Mandelic Acid Peel

• Depth: Superficial

• Best for: Sensitive skin, melasma, PIH, the gentlest AHA

• Why it's great for Indian skin: Large molecular size means slower penetration, much lower risk of irritation and rebound PIH. A first-choice peel for darker skin tones

• Sessions: 4–6, spaced 2–3 weeks apart

Lactic Acid Peel

• Depth: Superficial to light-medium

• Best for: Dry, sensitive, or mature skin. Good for brightening and hydration

• Bonus: Also a humectant, draws moisture to the skin

TCA Peel (Trichloroacetic Acid)

• Depth: Medium (at 15–25%) to deep (35%+)

• Best for: Deeper pigmentation, moderate acne scarring, significant skin laxity, fine lines

• What to expect: 5–7 days of visible peeling and downtime. Skin will be red and flaking

• Important: Must be performed by a qualified dermatologist, wrong concentration or application on Indian skin can cause hyperpigmentation or scarring

• Sessions: Often 1–3 sessions, spaced 4–6 weeks apart

Combination Peels (e.g., Jessner's, Yellow Peel, Cosmelan)

• Depth: Superficial to medium

• Best for: Stubborn melasma, mixed pigmentation concerns

• These combine multiple acids (and sometimes depigmenting agents) for synergistic effect. Cosmelan in particular is widely used for melasma with strong clinical data.

What Peels Won't Do

Chemical peels are excellent at improving surface texture, tone, and mild to moderate scarring. They will not:

• Remove deep or ice-pick acne scars (these need microneedling, subcision, or lasers)

• Permanently remove melasma (peels help, but melasma requires an ongoing management protocol)

• Tighten significantly loose skin (this requires HIFU, RF, or threads)

How to Prepare Your Skin (Pre-Peel Protocol)

For medium peels in particular, dermatologists often recommend 2–4 weeks of skin "priming" beforehand:

• Retinoids: Speed up cell turnover and even out the stratum corneum, allowing more uniform peel penetration

• Hydroquinone or kojic acid (for pigmented skin): Suppresses melanocyte activity to reduce the risk of post-peel PIH

• SPF 50+ religiously: Sensitised skin must be protected before and after

After a Peel: What to Expect

• Superficial peels: Mild redness for 24–48 hours, some flaking at days 3–5. Normal activity immediately.

• Medium peels: Significant peeling and redness for 5–7 days. Avoid sun exposure completely during this period.

• Do not pick or peel the skin manually, this is how scarring happens.

• Moisturise generously and apply SPF 50+ every morning.

The Right Peel for Indian Skin

The most common mistake in chemical peel treatment for Indian skin is going too aggressive too fast. We start conservatively, assess tolerance, and build up concentration progressively. This approach takes a few more sessions but produces the same result without the risk of post-treatment pigmentation darkening.

At Youthville Clinic, peels are selected based on a full skin assessment, type, concern, sensitivity, and prior treatment history, not a one-size-fits-all protocol.